Italian Style Spy at Luisa Via Roma: Buyer Interview

One of Italy’s most fashion forward boutiques, Luisa Via Roma, manages to push the aesthetic boundaries in a country where the rules on what you wear are almost as strict as those on what you eat. By being one of the first to open online, the store has managed to build a reputation beyond it’s Florentine home and carve an international name for itself through its niche taste that combines young, insider labels with street wear styling and huge luxury brands. The minimalist layout, both online and in store, acts as a foil to the eye catching statement pieces that make you stand up and take note. The bold windows that have claimed headlines in Italy, have always fascinated me and Andrea Panconesi, and his team, also always seem to give voice to some of the biggest fashion moments at home and abroad.

Video footage from Luisa Via Roma Window Installation

Click Above for video footage from Luisa Via Roma Window Installation

Whether it was when Mr Panconesi first went buying in Paris and revolutionised his family run, rather conservative, Florentine store or more recently when some of the most important bloggers to revolutionise and break open the fashion business came to the store for a two day celebration and styling lab to celebrate luisaviaroma.com’s 10th birthday.

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Bryan Boy at the Luisa Via Roma 10th Birthday. Above Image; buyers Silvano Vangi and Ania Arcaini with Mary Katrantzou

Despite the stores beautiful layout, use of new technology and support of fashion moments, its undoubtedly the core aesthetic that keeps their cool reputation alive. Each season they manage to scout out insider brands and combine them with new and old names to create a mix of the bold, bright and beautiful that is completely unique on the luxury market. I managed to catch up with Silvano Vangi and Ania Arcaini (shown above with designer Mary Katrantzou) from the womenswear buying team to see what it is that catches their eye….

When you’re out buying who are you shopping for?

“To be honest the Luisa woman is a show stopper and someone who can carry off the strong pieces and bold looks. Never a fashion victim, she has the confidence to play with her style and have fun with the way that she dresses.”

It would have to be someone with personality then to carry off some of the very fashion forward things that you buy….

“It’s about combining your own personality and style with a great, unique piece that can make all the difference and really create a “Wow!” effect. When that’s done right its amazing.”

Which shows are you always excited to see? The ones you know are never going to disappoint…

“In the past seasons we’ve been loving Lanvin, Givenchy, Erdem and Jean Pierre Braganza as well as some of the smaller designers like Mary Katrantzou

In the past few seasons we’ve seen a rise in the Italian fashion profile, in the sense that Pitti is growing each year, we have some of fashions most important labels showing in Milan and Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy; Italian pride is always something that has had a strong presence in fashion and as an Italian boutique do you feel scrutinized to pick up home grown talent first?

“ We go for individuality over nationality”

Looking forward to next season what themes have you picked out for the stores mood?

“The bourgeois 1980s girl, think Lauren Hutton in American Gigolo and we’re getting there! The mood is definitely along the lines of American dressing with clean, masculine tailoring and fabrics”

What is your “must have” item for the following season?

“A great jacket, something hounds tooth in a traditional, masculine fabric maybe even a well cut suit”

Luisa Via Roma has always branched out to take risks with new designers and initiatives, now supporting bloggers what was the attraction?

“Their independence and the fact that they have the freedom to say and judge in a purer way that isn’t jaded by the industry. They’re people that demonstrate the individuality of fashion and for that their comments are often very useful and valid.”

Words: Samantha Lewis

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