In recent years, Copenhagen has cemented its position as a fashion destination offering minimalistic style, with a modern twist and opulently embellished wardrobe classics.

The style on show for SS11 did not disappoint with favourites including, Peter Jensen, Wood Wood, Spon Diogo and Bruuns Bazaar, showing alongside the fresh faces of Copenhagen’s top design schools Teko and Designskolen Kolding, who offered innovation in abundance.

The overall feel of the week was one of simplistic, edgy elegance. Designers turned out collections defined by an ability to deconstruct and reconstruct classics across the board; from street wear to suiting and occasion wear. Collections were predominantly dominated by monochrome palettes with yellow adding a colourful lining and geometric prints also offering an alternate aesthetic. Asymmetric hemlines and overtly defined lines were also a recurring theme, carving silhouettes into sharp angles.

Notable moments included UK based designer Peter Jensen’s weird and wonderful collection of impeccably constructed printed patchwork combination’s, which were finished with a touch of metallic sheen and playful over sized bows. The sports socks and sandals, some resembling Christmas decorations, were also a delightful highlight.

Simon Rasmussen also turned out a lighthearted collection rich in colour and texture. The theatrics included

movable props constructed of obscure objects, which mirrored the garments on the models controlling them.  Simon Rasmussen took patchwork to a whole new level that could accurately be described as recycled magic. Think leopard fur, leather, flannelet, denim, from head to toe and pants and jackets constructed entirely from stuffed toys, donas and plastic bags. If there was an underlying message there it would certainly have been one about a material society where wastage is en mass and quality is over ridden by quantity, but message or no message the collection was certainly creative.

Other designers worthy of a mention were Wood Wood, who have made a name for themselves based on their avant-garde street wear. The duo behind the label Karl Oskar and Brian Jenson delivered relaxed tailoring, dynamic prints and intricate draping that continued the themes of deconstructed minimalism and polished juxtaposition of casual and occasion wear that weaved their way throughout the week.

The well-established luxury label Bruuns Bazaar offered simplistic tailoring with subtle details and muted print blends. While Danish favourites Mia Lisa Spon and Rui Anderson Rodrigues Diogo of Spon Diogo delivered their much loved signature graphic tailoring rich in structural detail.

The top two design schools Teko and Designskolen Kolding presented a future full to the brim with the promise of bulbous shapes, strong lines and the occasional burst of outlandish brilliance. For shows composed of multiple designers the presentations were relatively seamless proving that the future, though rich in innovation, remains steeped in a coherent sense of style that extends the boundaries of wear ability to all kinds of new proportions and directions. It’s safe to say Copenhagen fashion week looks set to stun for a while, consistently opposing the art of deconstructed tailoring with the definition of form through structural lines.

Directional fashion with slightly left of centre detailing is perhaps the best way to describe the Copenhagen fashion industry both present and future. It is a place where an unconventional approach to the conventional reigns supreme and individuality is widely celebrated. The SS11 collections confirmed that Copenhagen is the home of the new fashion royalty that is putting the art in Street Smart.

Feature image by Clara Abrahamsen at the Vilsbol De Arce show