Milan Fashion Week SS12 – Day 4 Wrap-up

Day four of Milan fashion week was one of those days were it was very hard to choose a favourite. So many inspirational collections yet all so different.
Emporio Armani was precise, elegant and directional. The models walked down the catwalk like modern Marlene Dietrich clones, wearing the collection which mixed formal tones of black and white with softer pastels. Line was a core focus for Mr Armani with piping outlining the design lines of jackets, dresses and pants. The exploration of line also extended to hems, which were often wired creating a futuristic hula-hoop style of hem, which moved beautifully on the catwalk. The accessories from the show are set to be on waiting lists with perspex heels and collars. Bags mixed humour with craftsmanship, with Mr Armani’s interpretation of a bumbag and oversized see through totes. Over all the collection was modern, daring and striking.
Peter Dundas at Emilio Pucci turned out arguably his best collection yet for the house, with a parade of achingly sensual gypsy women. There was a lot of midriff and skirt combinations, causing a bell shaped silhouette. Fabrications mixed from silk prints to lace, which was inserted everywhere possible. Definitely a look-at-me collection bound for the red carpet.
Raf Simons blew everyone away at Jil Sander perfectly marrying his creative with the house’s traditions. He started working the iconic white shirt into lab-coat inspired shirt dresses. He then moved onto to an hourglass silhouette produced in neon paisley. Yes, neon. Gingham also played a key role and additions of block colour dresses with diamante brooches at the waist all seemed to work. Simons is definitely one of today’s most ground breaking designers.
Tomas Maier at Bottega Veneta produced a stunning collection rich in colour and texture. He employed jewel tones of ruby, emerald green and deep purple. Texture combinations of fringing, leather, beading and ruching, provided the luxurious aesthetic the house is known for. The finale dresses which were Grecian and glamorous, will be at home at any award ceremony.
Just Cavalli and Moschino Cheap & Chic, the two second labels showing today, were rather interesting. Just Cavalli felt like a relaunch as it was sexed-up and rock star just like its bigger sister. The mix of embellishments, studs, snakeskin, fur, feathers and tight denim made this collection hone in on what the label was all about. Just Cavalli screamed “I’m with the band”. On the other hand, Moschino Cheap & Chic felt slightly simple, working with fruit and floral motifs. Definitely for their younger customers.
So a day where there were many heroes. It is hard for one to decide whether to be an Emporio Armani svelte modette, an Emilio Pucci gypsy queen or an irreverent legend in a Jil Sander neon paisly ensemble. Decisions, decisions.













