Living in Italy you have to decipher your way through a lot of smoke and mirrors as Italians have a very strong concept of what is expected from them, how to play on this and how they are perceived ; the idea of la bella figura. A few weeks ago I thought I found a great fashion example, lets start with a bit of history though:
At the beginning of 1950s an enterprising Italian, Giovanni Battista Giorgioni, proud of the talented artisans in his native city, Florence, saw a hunger in consumers for the quality and classic traditions found in European craftsmanship.
Seeing an opportunity he asked foreign buyers to pass by Florence, on their way to the couture shows in Paris, and show them the young, talented, ready to wear designers who were using the quality of the Italian craftsmanship in their garments. This event became Pitti Imagine. Sure enough the influx of foreign interest and investment was a huge success and saw the event move to Rome before settling permanently, twice a year in Milan, now known as Milan Fashion Week.
The original Pitti tradeshow has still continued in Florence and, since I moved here two years ago, has seemed to have snowballed, raising its profile each year. The wonderfully unique thing about the two major Pitti weeks, one for menswear in January and womenswear in June, is that despite some of the major labels that choose the event to showcase their new work; Proenza Shouler and Undercover last season for womenswear and Giles Deacon this January. The labels here all have an emphasis on commercial ready to wear or look to showcase some of Italy’s young, upcoming talents.
Therefore with an emphasis on youth and talent giving the proceedings a more laid back air, the parties are never ones to disappoint either. This year Viktor & Rolf were in town for cocktails at the most avant garde boutique in the city, Luisaviaroma, where the Sartorialist popped in for a book signing too.

Giles Deacon showcased his new collection in one of Italy’s oldest and most famous porcelain factories, the
quality of product theme has remained an integral part of the proceedings, yet saying that there was also the American Apparel party that involved lots of dancing on speakers in spandex!
Which brings me to the Guess fashion show and party that is always on the closing night of Pitti and after a week of cocktails and small talk, going out with a bang never seemed quite so appealing! This year they chose Stazione Leopolda, an old train station, which in the midst of a Renaissance city seems dramatically modern and industrial.

The huge open space had been divided into four areas; an enormous entrance with walls covered in images what could be described as Jessica Simpson’s “dolce vita” immediately making you feel like your outlandish fashion garb is far too concealing…if you have never ending legs and a Baywatch sized bust that is!

The shows were great and worked well in the industrial surroundings, with Harley Davidsons and rockers on the catwalk Guess really gives foreign buyers the taste of what they think Italian style should be; themselves utilising a foreigners own preconceived aesthetic of a glamorous Italian lifestyle and selling it back to them.
The three shows, had a great atmosphere with smiling (yes really), “curvy” models strutting down the catwalk to pounding “lets get this party started” pop. The huge banquet that followed was Italian food heaven, even my incredibly critical Italian friend was full of oohs and aahs! The sitting areas, filled with cushions made from Guess jeans that I ,having initially sneered at for being too kitsch, was later mourning as they were all snapped up before I had hit the cocktail bar and realised that some distressed denim would be such a strong summer look for my sofa! The band, Justin Timberlakes backing group, began playing in yet another enormous room and with their many wig and hat combos, and had everyone cutting some serious shapes on the dancefloor. A fab way to end a manic week between work overload and party meltdown. A week designed by the Italians to gain foreign investors, I mused mojito in hand, was finished perfectly at a party for a brand that completely encompasses Italian design broken down into glamorous pieces designed for the foreign market who know what they want from Italy; pouting and working what’s its mama gave it, and they sure didn’t disappoint and made a very bella figura.

Words: Samantha Lewis